Konbonwa, ogenki desuka?
No, I hadn’t been taken over by aliens just then but I’d like to tell you when I did feel like one during a visit to this particular country last year after hopping of my flying saucer with wings and British Airways written on the side. This particular planet is often called land of the rising sun. It’s also known for its polite, courteous and sometimes other worldly inhabitants whose customs and rituals can confuse even the most law abiding and culture appreciating traveller. It also has some of the most outrageous fashions especially within the younger generation and if you like karaoke, you’ll be a permanent X factor wannabe.
I’m sure you’ve guessed it by now. I’m going to tell you about that country that seems to get missed of many people’s travel lists because it’s too expensive – which it isn’t – that is, Japan. I was fortunate enough to be let in last year for a few weeks and I’d like to share with you my experiences and some interesting facts about this fascinating island where you do really feel like you’ve just left Earth. By the way, don’t let that small amount of Japanese at the beginning fool you that I actually learned how to say, “Good evening, how are you?”, that’s where Google comes in handy.
Japan is situated in the Pacific Ocean east of China, Korea and Russia and is made up of many small islands within an island. It has many active volcanoes and Mt fuji although iconic for the country, could burst its hot fury at any time. The country is one of the worst for volcanic and seismic activities and although the buildings are built to withstand an uninvited onslaught, I was glad to have avoided this unwanted occurrence. Japan also has the second largest economy and is world renowned for its cuisine, hard to believe that only a century ago meat was rarely eaten and the staple diet was rice, noodles, tofu and fresh vegetables. The Japanese also believe heavily in spirituality and try to live their lives by this. Shinto and Buddhism are hugely respected and followed. You will see shrines and temples dedicated to these dotted all over the country. How can I forget to mention the Samurai, the way of the sword and Sumo wrestling. Japan is steeped highly in history and tradition.
I visited three areas in Japan, Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima. I’m going to talk specifically about my stay in Tokyo. On my arrival to the main station the sheer amount of people around was overwhelming and this wasn’t even rush hour. I wanted to take a sneaky picture of a train packed like sardines at five thirty, that could wait. After trying to work out the tube map which would make you nauseous and doubting your own sanity, I had to get some fresh air. Walking down the street feeling hungry and thirsty, I had the pleasure of trying out one of the futuristic street vending machines which by the way are legendary. They sell all manner of weird drinks with strange names, even a humble beer which looks out of place in the plethora of strange liquids. These machines sell all sorts of things depending on where in the city you are, such as clothes, underwear and other worldly goods. For food, I thought I’d try a local cafe. I choose something that vaguely resembled food, it looked edible and the text was in Japanese. I didn’t have a clue what I was eating, all a part of the fun one assumes.
Tokyo at night is when it all happens. You really do feel like an extra in Blade Runner with the flashing neon, frenetic energy and glaring advertisements. Every area in Tokyo has a different feel and identity. The first evening I want to an area called Shibuya, slightly hip and trendy. Straight out of the station and there’s a cute female rock band belting out a bit of rock and roll. The dress code around here is out there to say the least. There is a really big thing in Japan called cos play. This isn’t some bizarre sexual act but more like a permanent fancy dress party where people dress like maids, strange goths or wear medieval attire. It’s almost like the actors and actresses had left the show and forgot to get changed. Speaking of Maids, they have these maid cafes dotted around the city where you can have cakes, jelly and ice cream all served by girls dressed up as, well, maids. It sounds wrong as I’m sure you’ll agree but to the Japanese it’s cute and you have to get your head around that a little bit; they are obsessed with all things cute.
Whilst navigating the Hachiko crossing, which by the way is the world’s busiest, I noticed an abundance of office workers looking like they’d just clocked off shift. Rather strange I thought as this was eleven pm at night. The Japanese do work hard and late but they certainly play hard too hence the need for the capsule hotel, a small rectangular space with just enough room for a bed and small TV with a door resembling a giant washing machine. Designed of course by the Japanese and made to store many a drunk business man who’d been working late and missed the last train home.
Tokyo is divided into wards and there are twenty-three of them, each having its own unique identity. To find an address here is a mission in itself due to the sheer scale and division of these said wards. It even has its own beach which when not being threatened with a tsunami, can be reached easily by monorail affording great views of the city. It has its own Eiffel tower with its original title, The Tokyo Tower and a replica Statue of Liberty, so there are a few western influences in the city, albeit a bit tacky. Getting around is easy by a very efficient transport network although they do pack them in. Luckily most of them never seem too bothered by this as they seem to be heavily indulged in their manga comics or hi-tech games.
While on the subject of games, one major obsession played by almost everyone regardless of age or gender is a game called pachinko which is like a cross between pinball and a slot machine with thousands of little silver balls. No one admits to playing but walking around various districts in the city, one cannot help but notice the sheer volume who are at the helms. Walking through one is much like an amplified casino with the sound of rushing coins and bleep sounds that R2D2 would have trouble reaching for. In similarity to Las Vegas, these seem to pop up everywhere. An even more bizarre thing is that these are technically illegal. Gaming in general is big business in Tokyo and there are numerous arcades to satisfy every type of techno head. One can see a business man winding down after a hard day at work playing some shoot ’em up game or a terrible teenager trying to impress his girl by reaching the next level.
With all the hi-tech gadgetry, Tokyo does have its old historic side. I visited a particular area called Asakusa which was once the hub of city nightlife in a bygone era. Here is where you will find numerous temples, shrines and smells of traditional Japan. Walking around here one could smell a scent of unrecognisable food, incense and other burning aromas. I found myself walking down an old market leading to a magnificent temple alongside a classic piece of architecture known as a Pagoda, which is a tiered tower with multiple eaves – a familiar site all around Japan and Asia in general. I stumbled upon a thriving, bustling street lined with numerous worn cafes and ancient eateries. The clientele seemed mainly Japanese, definitely a local hang out. No one spoke English and all the menus were unreadable. Thinking it would be a good idea to sit with the natives, we sat down, took our chances and randomly picked something off the menu, hoping for the best. Luckily the choice was good and the food excellent.
I can’t mention Japan without talking about the infamous Bullet Train. First conceived in the late fifties. These trains with the infamous bullet nose can reach speeds of up to 275 mph and yet to this day there has never been any fatalities or derailments. Riding the Shinkansen as its more known, is a ritual that starts from turning up at the station, buying your ticket then choosing a bento box for the journey. A bento box is a wooden box with little compartments containing various edibles such a raw fish, noodles and seaweed; tapas, Japanese style. Part of the fun is that you don’t really know what you are getting as each box varies one to the other, so it all makes for an interesting culinary experience. Once you have chosen your bento box, you then queue in an orderly line dictated by markings on the platform according to which seat and cabin you are in; nobody detracts from this. While you are waiting, there is some nice ambient music playing over the speakers with birds twittering and other relaxing animal sounds. The people glance at their watches, these trains are notorious for being dead on time, to the second. The Japanese people take great pride in this and they certainly won’t be waiting around for you. Finally, the train pulls in, endless carriages abound until the door to your cabin is perfectly aligned to your queue. For the next few hours you are happily eating some unknown delicacies whilst being transported at great speed in what is essentially an aircraft cabin on rails but with much more legroom and far less turbulence.
I hope to have given you a small insight into to this fascinating country. Japan ticks a lot of boxes for me. You have your mix of old cultures and traditions along with new, modern, forward thinking ideas, inventions and attitudes. You have your urban dweller areas but a swath of greenery and mountainous scenery is only a short ride away, some of it actually reminded me of England. I like the way they live their lives in a spiritual, religious way and whilst some of the strange customs especially when it comes down to business will seem outdated to some, one comes to accept and appreciate this in time. Even using the futuristic style toilets is a pleasant experience as it can get. The crime is extremely low and most people apologise to you when it perhaps should have been the other way around. You don’t have to eat at fancy restaurants to get a good quality meal or shop at the most expensive districts to get the best clothes, although if you want to spend like a lottery winner, the city will embrace you with open arms. I found the Japanese people to be very warm and welcoming and I never once felt intimidated, threatened or out of place. Of course, you will never feel quite in place either as it’s true what they say. A visit to Japan is as close enough as you will get to visiting another planet without having actually left Earth.
Pete Rann
© 2014 Pete Rann